Collar



Aug. 5, 1941. V

W. RUBINSTEIN COLLAR Filed June 19, 1939 iii M Z 0 a M Patented Aug. 5, 194-1 UNITED STATES or ies COLLAR Application June 19, 1939, Serial No. 279,810

Claims.

This invention relates to collars; and it consists of a novel assembly and relationship of parts in collars of the turned down type usually worn in connection with mens shirts, and each of which includes a band and a cape.

Objects of the invention are to provide an improved turned down collar embodying novel means and structural features and a novel cooperative relationship thereof for forming and clearly defining a longitudinal curved fold line adjacent to the attachment of the cape and band along which the collar will easily fold; to embody in the collar a tape attached to the infold ply of the cape by a longitudinal line of stitches running along the band side of the fold line and constituting a guide for use in the subsequent attachment of the exposed ply of the band to the cape by a line of stitches formed through or adjacent to said first line of stitches; and to provide a novel arrangement for attaching said tape and a cape lining section to the infold ply of the cape in a manner in which the attaching means remains concealed by the exposed ply of the cape when the collar is ironed and constitutes a definite longitudinal border for the cape side of the fold line.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the following description, reference being made to the annexed drawing, in which- Fig. 1 is a plan view showing the concealed side of the infold ply having the longitudinal fold line tape attached thereto by a single row of stitches parallel to the arc of the cape and to the resulting fold line after the cape and band are attached to complete the collar.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the concealed side of the exposed ply of the cape and the attached cape lining section superimposed upon the exposed side of the infold ply and attached thereto by a line of stitches running along the lower and .end margins of the cape, parts being broken away to disclose subjacent parts.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged cross-sectionalview on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2, the cape being turned inside out as in Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 is a plan View showing the exposed ply of the cape after it is turned right-side out from the position of the parts shown in Fig.2, a part of the exposed ply of the cape being removed to disclose the concealed means forming the cape side of the fold line and also securing the upper margin of the cape lining section to the fold n e and tatt infie de o th cap Fig. 5 is an enlarged cross-sectional view approximately on the line 5--5 of Fig. 4.

Fig. 6 is an extended plan View of the exposed side of the completed collar.

Fig. 7 is an enlarged sectional view approximately on the line 1 1 of Fig. 6, illustrating the arrangement of the parts forming the curved longitudinal fold line.

Fig. 8 is a diagrammatic sectional view of the completed collar partly folded.

In the specific embodiment shown, the invention is contained in a two-piece collar in which the cape includes an exposed ply I, an infold ply 2, and a cape lining section 3 confined and attached between the plies I and 2, and the band includes an exposed ply 4, an infold ply 5, and a band lining section 6 confined and attached between the plies 4 and 5. The upper margins I and 2 of the cape are extended downwardly into the band and are confined between and attached to the upper margins 4' and 5 of the band plies of the collar. A tape 1 extends longitudinally between the upper portions of the 'cape plies l and 2 along and across the fold line of the collar and downwardly short distances into the cape and into the band, respectively, at opposite sides of the fold line. The tape 1 is composed of textile fabric, preferably cut on the bias, so that its threads extend obliquely from edge to edge, which permits a straight tape to be curved and attached by curved lines of stitches to other parts of the collar without noticeably buckling or wrinkling the tape, leaving the tape free to function as a concealed part of the defined fold line of the collar, it being important that the tape and the attaching means therefor shall not be visible when the collar is processed and ready for wear.

The tape 5 is attached to the concealed side of the infold ply 2 by a longitudinal curved line of stitches parallel with the edges of the tape and also parallel with the upper edge of the margin 2' of the infold ply. The infold ply 2 and the tape 1 may be guided to the stitch-forming mechanism of a sewing machine by mechanism such as that disclosed in the application of Harry Johnston, Serial No. 277,310, filed June 3, 1939, for Sewing machines for collars. The longitudinal line of stitches preferably includes a needle thread 8 along the tape 1, which is eventually concealed when the collar is completed, anda bobbin thread 9 which is preferably of a contrasting color to the color of the ply 2 so that said thread 9 functions as a part of the attaching line of stitches, and also as a guide during the fold ply 2 in an inside=out relationship in which 7 the ultimately exposed surfaces of said plies I and 2 are toward each other. The plies I and 2 and the cape lining section 3 are then attached together by a line of stitches I extending along the lower and end margins thereof and also crossing the ends of the tape I. In this arrangement, it is essential that the end and lower edges of the cape lining section are approximately even with the end and lower edges of the plies I and 2. It is also essential that the upper edge, II of the cape lining section 3 be along a curved line parallel with the curvature of the tape I and with t the line of stitches 8--9 so that, when the cape is turned right-side out as in Fig. 4, the upper edge II of the cape lining section 3 slightly overlaps that margin of the tape I which extends downwardly into the cape.

After being turned right-side outas in Fig. 4 to confine the cape lining section 3 and the tape 1 between the plies I and 2, a zigzag line of stitches I2 is formed through the upper margin of the cape lining section 3 and along the subjacent "edge of the strip Or tape 1, and along the upper edge II of the cape linin section and through the tape I and the infold ply 2. The zigzag line of stitches I2 constitutes the only attachment securing the cape margin of the strip or tape 1 and the upper margin of the lining section 3 to the infold ply 2. The axis of the zigzag line of stitches I2 is parallel with the line of stitches 8--9 and secures the edge II to the strip or tape I parallel with said line of stitches 89 and separated therefrom by a curved longitudinal space I3 which ultimately includes the curved longitudinal fold line of the collar." The line of stitches I2 lies closely against and is partially embedded in the cape lining section 3, sufiiciently indenting said cape lining section so that, when the completed collar is ironed for use, the pressure of the iron against the exposed surface of the exposed ply I of the collar does not cause or produce any objectionably visible impression of the said zigzag line of stitches I2. This is an important characteristic and quality obtained by this construction and arrangement because interposed attaching stitches, etc., crossed by the line of stitches I2 sometimes cause or produce visible 1 impressions or outlines of the zigzag stitches upon the exposed ply, and this must be avoided in collars that are satisfactory.

Next, the cape in the right-side out form shown in Fig. 4 is superimposed upon the exposed ply I of the band having the upper margin of the'band lining section 6 attached to the concealed side thereof by a curved longitudinal line of stitches I4. -In this superimposed arrangement of the parts, the outer surface of the exposed ply I of the cape faces the outer surface of the exposed ply 4 of the band, andthe edge of the ply 4 of the band is even with the edges of the margins I and 2" and with the interposed edge of the strip or tape I. The contrastinglycolored thread 9 constitutes a guide for the operative, and a longitudinal curved line of stitches I5 is formedthrough V the margin 2, the strip or tape I, the margin I and of the band ply 4, and said five parts are attached together by a curved longitudinal line of stitches I6 parallel with and spaced from the curved longitudinal line of stitches I5. The line of stitches I6 is closer to the edges of the attached materials than the lines of stitches I5 and 89.

'After the line of stitches I6 has been formed, the plies 4 and 5 are turned right-side out to the position shown in Fig. 8, in which position the line of stitches I6 is concealed by the plies 4 and 5. Then, if desired, a curved longitudinal line of quilting stitches I? may be formed in proper relationship to the lines of stitches I5 and I6 and through the various layers or plies of materials including the strip or tape I, the margins I and 2', the downwardly extended margins of the plies 1 and 5, and through the exposed portions of the plies 4 and 5. However, this line of quilting stitches I? is optional and may be omitted, if preferred.

Before the collar is completed, a line of stitches i8 is formed along the end and lower margins of the cape inwardly beyond the edges of the inturned margins of the parts I, 2, and 3. The line of stitches I8 passes through the plies I and 2 and the interposed cape lining section 3 and cooperates with the line of stitches II! to hold these plies or sections in proper relationship.

While I have shown the invention embodied in a two-piece collar having the respective plies composed of two parts attached together in a manner controlling and forming the longitudinal curved fold line, it is apparent that the invention may be varied in this particular and embodied in different collars of the turned down type. The arrangement of the parts may be varied in several optional particulars from the foregoing specific disclosure without departure from the nature and principle of the invention.

' I claim: l

1. In a turned down collar composed of a band, and a cape stitched to the band, and each including an exposed ply and an infold ply, said col.- lar having a curved longitudinal fold line defining the band from the cape; a flatand unfolded tape on the concealed side of the infold ply of the cape extending longitudinally along said fold line and downwardly into the band and cape between said exposed and infold plies, a curved longitudinal line of stitches attaching said tape to said infold ply along the band side of said'fold line and above the stitching attaching the cape plies to the band plies of the collar, a cape lining section having a curved upper edge wholly within the cape and parallel with said line of stitches and overlapping the cape margin of said tape, and a curved line of zigzag stitches-crossing the edge of said lining section and seating against the'surfaces of said infold ply and said lining section and having one side extending through said tape and said infold ply above and along the upper edge of said lining section and having its other side extending through said lining section andsaid infold ply below the lower edge of said tape.

2. In 'a turned down collar composed of a band, and'a cape stitched to the band,'and each including an exposed ply and an infold ply, said collar having a curved longitudinal fold line defining the band from the cape; a fiat and unfolded tape on the concealed side of the infold ply of the cape extending longitudinally along said fold line and downwardly into the band and cape between said exposed and infold plies, a curved longitudinal line of stitches attaching said tape to said infold ply of the cape along the band side of said fold line, a cape lining section wholly within the cape and having its upper margin flat and unfolded and a curved upper edge parallel with said line of stitches at the cape side of said fold line, and a curved line of zigzag stitches crossing the upper edge of said lining section and seating against the surfaces of said infold ply and said lining section and extending through said tape and said infold ply above and along the upper edge of said lining section and also extending through said lining section and said infold ply downwardly within the cape a distance from the upper edge of said lining section.

3. In a turned down collar composed of a band, and a cape stitched to the band and each including an exposed ply and an infold ply, said collar having the upper margins of said cape plies confined between and attached to the upper margins of said band plies; a flat and unfolded tape on the concealed side of the infold ply of the cape extending downwardly into the band and cape between said exposed and infold plies, curved longitudinal lines of stitches attaching said band plies to said cape plies and to said tape and forming one side of a controlled longitudinal fold line along said tape, a cape lining section having a fiat and unfolded upper margin and a curved upper edge wholly within the cape and parallel with said lines of stitches and overlapping the cape margin of said tape, and a curved line of zigzag stitches crossing the edge of said lining section and seating against the surfaces of said infold ply and said lining section and extending through said tape and said infold ply above and along the upper edge of said lining section and forming the cape side of said fold line and also extending through said lining section and said infold ply a distance downwardly from the upper edge of said lining section.

4. In a turned down collar composed of a band,

and a cape stitched to the band and each including an exposed ply and an infold ply, said collar having the upper margins of said cape plies confined between and attached to the upper margins of said band plies; a flat and unfolded tape on the concealed side of the infold ply of the cape extending longitudinally along the fold line of the collar and downwardly into the band and cape between said exposed and infol-d plies, lines of stitches attaching said band plies to said cape plies and to said tape and forming the band side of said fold line, a cape lining section having a flat and unfoldable upper margin and a curved upper edge parallel with said lines of stitches, and a curved line of zigzag stitches crossing the upper edge of said lining section and extending through said tape and said iniold ply above and along the upper edge of said lining section and extending through said lining section and said infold ply below the upper edge of said lining section and cooperating with said upper edge of said lining section to form and define the cape side of said fold line.

5. In a turned down collar composed of a band, and a cape stitched to the band and each including an exposed ply and an infold ply, said collar having the upper margins of said cape plies confined between the upper margins of said band plies; a fiat and unfolded tape extending longitudinally along the concealed side of the upper margin of the infold ply of the cape and downwardly into the band and cape, curved lines of stitches attaching said tape and said upper margins of said band plies to the upper margins of said cape plies and cooperating to form one longitudinal side of a controlled fold line along said tape, a cape lining section having a fiat and unfolded upper margin and a curved upper edge parallel with said curved lines of stitches, and a curved line of zigzag stitches crossing the upper edge of said lining section parallel with said first named curved lines of stitches attaching said lining section to said infold ply and to said tape and cooperating with said first lines of stitches and said band plies to form a controlled fold line along said strip between said respective lines of stitches and along the upper edge of said lining section.

WILTON RUBINS'IEIN. 

